Once again I was regaled with a three-course feast for four by Moveable Feast, this time from a New Orleans restaurant, Compère Lapin.
When acclaimed chef Nina Compton opened her Warehouse District restaurant Compère Lapin almost eight years ago, I waited an anxious three months before I finally walked through the door. Nearly every morsel that passed through my lips are permanently etched in my memory, from Compton’s fluffy buttermilk biscuits and buttery braised carrots to her spicy, jerk shrimp roll and curried goat. I’ve been back several times since, even enjoying an unforgettable Thanksgiving feast. So, when Moveable Feast offered once again to deliver their April 2023 menu from Compère Lapin, how could I refuse?
Granted, I could get into my car, drive for 15 minutes, and dine at Nina Compton’s flagship restaurant anytime I’d like, but I was curious as to how Moveable Feast’s offerings would compare to the real deal. Would it be as good? Will I recognize the cuisine as Compton’s? There was only one way to find out.
When the white and orange box arrived, I already knew the drill. Unpacked and tucked into the fridge, I read the instructions, watched the video, and was prepared to prepare!
CANAPES
louisiana bowfin caviar with tostones
pickled shrimp with avocado and taro root
DINNER
whole jerk chicken
little gem salad with coconut dressing and crispy shallots
cow heel soup with smoked bone marrow
wood-roasted yams with cilantro-lime butter
buttermilk biscuits with honey butter
DESSERT
coconut tres leches cake with toasted coconut
As advertised, the entire feast took only 30 minutes to prepare. This time around I noticed more of the to-go packaging switched from U-Konserve’s stainless steel containers to biodegradable bags. It didn’t lessen the overall experience, but it definitely lessened the amount of washing up afterwards.
We happily gobbled the tangy pickled shrimp served atop pureed avocado and crisp taro root chips while the entrees were still in the oven. The Louisiana choupique caviar with crème fraîche and plantains was equally wonderful, though sadly, I broke the Mother-of-Pearl spoon they provided before the roe even reached my lips. I taped it together and it held out until we finished the tin the next day.
Though the pickled shrimp was a hint, Compton’s signature flavors really had me singing with the soul-warming cow heel soup with smoked bone marrow and okra, and (of course) the flavor-packed, earthy-spicy-juicy, whole jerk chicken which I am pretty sure was smoked and served with lots of extra sauce. And don’t even get me started on the yams! Since we were home and it was only the two of us, we gladly licked the cilantro-lime butter from our fingers and went back for more.
While I am positive the logistics of shipping Compton’s signature buttermilk biscuits, ones that can be easily re-heated in the oven, must have been a difficult task, the sad little lumps we received were the only disappointments of the entire meal. Though they still had great flavor (especially when we slathered them in honey butter), they were a long ways away from the fluffy, buttery beauties you get at Compère Lapin.
The feast ended with one of my most favorite desserts of all time, a coconut tres leches cake. It was just as creamy, sweet and light as I remember, and it was even better the next day after sitting in a cool fridge overnight.
Once again, I am pleased to sing praises to Moveable Feast and, of course, Nina Compton and all of the other incredibly talented chefs involved. If you want to enjoy a first class meal at home, this is definitely the way to go!
Though Compère Lapin’s menu has sold out this month, I’m sure they’ll be back again soon. In the meantime, you can reserve your Moveable Feast from James Beard Award-winning Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder, Colorado in May, and Michelin-starred Albi in Washington, DC in June. I just know you’ll be as pleased as I was to serve a white linen meal on my old, scarred oak table!
